Trainer designers urged to ditch ‘shrink it and pink it’

Sports footwear manufacturers are being urged to abandon the ‘shrink it and pink it’ approach to women’s running shoes, new research suggests.

The practice of simply making men’s shoes smaller and changing the colour fails to address women’s distinct anatomical and biomechanical needs, researchers found.

Over the past five decades, brands have spent billions developing trainers to prevent injury, maximise comfort and boost performance — but most research has been designed for and tested on men.

The researchers wrote: “Overall, our findings highlight a critical gap in the design of running footwear, which has been traditionally based on male anatomy and biomechanics.

“While participants did not always report being unable to find suitable footwear, their experiences reflected a process of trial-and-error adaptation, often without guidance or purpose-built solutions.

“This suggests their needs are not proactively addressed in current footwear design or communication.”

The researchers interviewed 21 female runners in Vancouver to explore whether they faced difficulties with footwear for running.

The group included 11 recreational runners averaging 19 miles per week and 10 competitive runners averaging 28 miles, aged between 20 and 70, with running experience ranging from six to 58 years.

Running shoes are typically built using a three-dimensional foot-shaped mould known as a last, which is usually based on male foot anatomy.

Many sports footwear brands use the same mould across their ranges, making only minor modifications beyond size and colour changes.

Comfort and shoe feel were ranked as the most important factors when choosing running shoes, followed by injury prevention and performance.

Most participants wanted a wider toe box — the front part of the shoe that houses the toes — along with a narrower heel and more cushioning.

Competitive runners also sought performance-enhancing features, such as carbon plates, provided they did not compromise comfort.

Both recreational and competitive runners emphasised the importance of buying shoes from trusted retailers to prevent injuries. They also highlighted the need for different shoe designs suited to various running contexts — including racing, training, speed sessions and injury recovery.

Nine women who had run during pregnancy or after giving birth said they needed larger sizes, wider fits and extra support and cushioning.

Competitive runners also reported needing added cushioning and support features as they grew older.

Designing running shoes specifically for female feet rather than adapting men’s models would likely improve comfort, reduce injury risk and enhance performance, the researchers said.

They concluded: “We strongly recommend that the footwear industry should move beyond simply scaling down men’s shoes to fit women’s feet.

“Instead, there is a need for sex- and gender-specific designs that accommodate the distinct foot morphology of women and their social constructs and preferences, all of which evolve across the lifespan.”